Mile O of the Alaska Highway.

Mile O of the Alaska Highway.

On June 2 we left Mosquito Creek campground in Banff NP and started our true drive north through Canada. I gotta tell you, most of it is pretty boring and uneventful with lots of driving and just making time. Each of our campsites since then were just pullouts alongside the road so there’s nothing to see but another pullout. So instead of describing our trip, I’ll briefly tell you where we camped and then I’ll answer the questions I think you’ll have about driving to Alaska through Canada. These are the questions I’ll answer in the next few posts:

  • What is the Alaska Highway?
  • Is it paved?
  • Where do you camp in Canada?
  • How does the money work?
  • How much does gas cost? Are things more expensive?
  • What are the speed limits? Are there many cops?
  • How much light is there; are the days longer?
  • Is it pretty? How’s the weather?

To start, here is a map of where we camped in the last week so you’ll have an overview:
canada-best

What is the Alaska Highway?

The Alaska Highway was built by the US Army during World War II as a supply line to get supplies to Russia which was our ally fighting the Germans. It was impossible to get supplies to them from the west through Europe or from the south from the Pacific Ocean, so they had to come in from the east through Alaska. We needed Russia to keep the German army away from Europe so we could invade at D Day. The only practical way to supply them was by building a highway to connect with existing highways at Dawson Creek, British Columbia all the way north to Fairbanks, Alaska. Then we could truck supplies to Fairbanks and then fly them from there to Russia. So the Alaska Highway officially begins at Dawson Creek and ends at Fairbanks. After the war was over it was turned over to the Canadians who own and operate it as part of their highway system.

The Alaska Highway winding it's way through the mountains.

The Alaska Highway winding it’s way through the mountains.

During the war the military referred to the road as the Alcan as it’s official designation and when I grew up in Alaska that’s what we all called it so that is what I naturally refer to it as. I may use that name and if I do it just refers to the Alaska Highway, but has fewer letters and is faster for me to type!

Is it paved?

For many years it was not paved but an agreement between Canada and the US has resulted in it being paved now. It’s not paved in the normal sense of asphalt black-top, instead it’s a form of chip sealing that is a very good substitute (and much cheaper) for paving. I took some pictures of it to give you an idea of what it is. In this photo you can see that it’s full of gravel in a tar base. I put down a quarter for scale and you can see that there are some big rocks in there. When you drive on it though, you can’t tell the difference between it and true asphalt; it’s really good stuff!

You can see it's not asphalt, it's course gravel laid down in a bed of tar. But it works great!

You can see it’s not asphalt, it’s course gravel laid down in a bed of tar. But it works great!

The problem is that it doesn’t last as long as asphalt so they are forced to constantly repair and replace it. In this photo of a pot-hole you can see it is not very thick so it gets pot holes often. Those they quickly repair and they aren’t much of an issue. But over time the road degrades and they rip up the old chip-seal and put down new. We’ve driven almost 900 miles of the Alaskan Highway so far and we’ve only run into one place where they had ripped up a section and were resurfacing it. It was only about 10 miles long so it was no big deal. About a mile of it was actually being resurfaced and was one lane so we had to follow a pilot car. The other 9 miles had been ripped up and was just a gravel road (like it all used to be). We drove over that at 20-30 mph.
can-pothole-001

This pothole is about a foot deep and you can see the “paving” is not very thick. So they have to replace it every few years. Expect to hit stretches of road that are gravel while it is re-surfed.

Without exception, every time I’ve driven it (about a dozen times) the last 200 miles or so from Haines Junction to the Alaska border were always in rough shape. They claim that section has so much permafrost under it that they can’t keep it repaired, but I’ve always thought that since there were so few Canadians up there they just didn’t care and didn’t want to spend the money for Americans driving to Alaska. Whatever the reason, expect the last little bit to be slow going!

Where do you camp in Canada?

On the Alaska Highway finding camping places is very easy! Along its entire length are many gravel pullouts and you are free to pull over and sleep there for the night. Some of them are quite large and even have trees between them and the highway. Some of them are near rivers and very pretty, others are at the end of a little road that goes away from the Alcan for a little bit and you have some privacy. But the majority are small and right on the road. They’ll all get the job done!

This would be an ideal pullout to sleep in. It's got trees and is quite a distance from the road (you can see it at the right). Most of the pullouts had liter barrels and toilets were easy to find the whole way.

This would be an ideal pullout to sleep in. It’s got trees and is quite a distance from the road (you can see it at the right). Most of the pullouts had liter barrels and toilets were easy to find.

There is a huge amount of truck traffic on the highway and they need a place to sleep so they all just pull over and sleep in the turnouts. We pulled into one a few days ago at dark and right after us a truck pulled in and spent the night also. Oddly enough, there are a few actual designated rest areas along the Alcan and all of them were posted as no camping or overnight parking. I took that to be the exception that proved the rule. If they didn’t want you to sleep there, they would have posted it as no camping.
To know in advance where you want to sleep, you must buy a Milepost!! It’s a book that covers every mile of the Alaska Highway, and ALL the highways in Alaska! I took the time to highlight all the turnouts along the way so I could tell at a glance what was coming up when we got ready to sleep for the night. Don’t drive to Alaska without one! You can buy it from Amazon here:
The Milepost 2014
Here is a photo I took of a page from the Milepost to give you an idea of all the turnouts along the way:
 
Using your Milepost, you can always find a turnout when you need one.

Using your Milepost, you can always find a turnout when you need one.

Two of the main towns along the way seem to encourage overnight camping. The first is Fort Nelson which is a pretty good sized town. It has a frontage road along both sides of the Alcan and it is made especially wide for overnight parking. We reached it in the middle of a snowstorm so we decided to spend the night there. There were dozens of trucks and RVs parked along the frontage road and it was obvious that is what they intended it for, so we snuggled right in and slept soundly.
Sleeping in Fort Nelson.  Several RVs and trucks had already left.

Sleeping in Fort Nelson. Several RVs and trucks had already left.

The other town is Whitehorse which is a large town and the capital of the Yukon Territory. It has a WalMart so we went shopping there. I swear there were a hundred RVs parked in their parking lot and many of them had their slides out, tow vehicle unhooked, and levelers down. They were obviously living there. It looked like the largest RV park in Canada! So you can overnight stay at the Walmart in Whitehorse!
This doesn't even begin to show all the RVs in the Walmart at Whitehorse! Notice the trailer second from the right has unhooked from his tow vehicle and has his levelers down. He's been there for awhile!

This doesn’t even begin to show all the RVs in the parking lot of the Walmart at Whitehorse! Notice the trailer second from the right has unhooked from his tow vehicle and has his levelers down. He’s been there for awhile!

Of course there is an abundance of RV parks all along the route if that’s what you want. When we got to Whitehorse we were tired and ready for a break so we paid to stay in a tent-site at a campground. It was $17 a night but it had a Laundromat, showers and WIFI, and those were things we were desperately wanting! So we paid for two nights but they were so busy we stayed for a third.
There are also State and Provincial campgrounds all along the Alcan. They are usually between $12 and $15 dollars. But why not spend a little more and get all the amenities?!
It was the same thing on the roads we’ve been on between Jasper National Park and Dawson Creek. They all either had an abundance of pullouts to camp on, or lots of logging roads heading off to the side where you can camp. Once it gets late enough we start keeping an eye out for a likely looking road or pullout to camp on and just pull over and sleep.
Before you get to the Alcan, you’ll also find areas where the trucks informally congregate to spend the night, and on trips I’ve taken before I would pull in with them and sleep—but it can get pretty noisy.
More to come!