Babz is one of the true veterans of nomadic living. She has lived in various vehicles and RVs for 26 years. She is currently in a Ford Transit that features some interesting build-out solutions.

“I’ve used a lot of PVC pipe. I found that for someone with limited carpentry skills it was an excellent lightweight solution, and it’s very easy to work with. It’s kind of fun, like being a kid and cutting and putting them together.

It’s just the stuff you buy at Lowe’s. There’s PVC you can buy that’s made for furniture, and it doesn’t have the advertising on it, so I’ve turned it all so you can’t see it. But yeah, I built this whole cabinet here over the cooler and this one for maybe thirty dollars. This shelf is PVC that’s suspended from the ceiling.

I do have to say, not a lot of these fittings you can’t get them at Lowe’s. You have to get them on either amazon or go right to the company to get them. There if you look at some of them this is a four-way so that’s like a three dollar piece.”

Notice how Babz has wrapped fabric (thrift store sheets) between the pipes to create shelves.

How are you cutting them? With a hand saw?

No, I have a PVC pipe cutter. I’ve actually been through three of them, though.”

“I would recommend if you’re working with PVC is that you put it on something that can handle the weight. These pieces were all from the upcycle stores.”

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN STANDARD AND FURNITURE-GRADE PVC?

Standard PVC (Schedule 40 or 80) is designed to be used inside buildings, often hidden between walls, away from sunlight. Exposure to the elements degrades its strength. On the other hand, furniture-grade PVC is glossy, doesn’t have manufacturers data printed on the outside, and its surface (which is available in several colors) is much more resistant to ultraviolet and impact damage. Furniture-grade PVC also offered a greater selection of fittings. Whereas standard PVC fittings are limited to mostly couplers, elbows, T’s, Y’s and caps, furniture-grade PVC fittings include 3-way, 4-way, 5-way, adjustable angles, mounting caps and more.

Standard PVC is lower priced than furniture-grade. You can enhance its resistance to sunlight and other damage by painting it with latex or acrylic paint that’s chemically compatible with PVC. That would also cover the printing. Since the interior of your rig is away from the elements, you might be satisfied simply sanding off the printing or, as Babz has done, just turn it away from you.

HOW CAN YOU HOLD IT TOGETHER?

Regular 2-part PVC adhesive will leave a purple stain at the joints, which isn’t a problem if you’re going to paint the assembly or if appearance isn’t important to you. But since you’re not going to be pumping water through your furniture (I presume) you don’t need a watertight connection. (But, hmmm, water storage in your furniture…) Other adhesives should be able to hold things sufficiently. Or self-tapping screws. Babz has found that the snugness of the fittings, plus gravity, have been enough for her various constructions.

IT LOOKS COMPLICATED

Projects like this require a little understanding of how to build for function and strength, and the ability to envision how the pieces go together, but that’s true no matter what you build with. In the case of PVC it’s a matter of thinking, “Okay, I need to make this shape, this size, and connect it to this other shape. What kind of fittings will make that happen?” Piece by piece, plan it out. Take measurements, make sketches. Think on it. Sleep on it. Let your subconscious figure things out while you do something else. Test fit everything. Have enough materials to allow for mistakes. And learn from those mistakes. You can do it.